Monday, 14 March 2011

Inn at Little Washington Sunday Dinner

We here at BonneVivantehood Towers usually have some form of Sunday dinner, be it a traditional roast with roasties and two veg or one of Silvena Rowe's deliciously unique eastern Mediterranean recipes.  This Sunday, however, we pulled out all the stops and decided to have an Inn at Little Washington-themed Sunday dinner. 

When I was 18, I went to the Inn at Little Washington in northern VA with my parents and grandmother to celebrate her 80th birthday.  That was nigh on 10 years ago (cringe!) and the Inn still tops all the "D.C.'s Best Restaurant" polls around.  The accolades are well deserved.  10 years on and I can still taste the food I had there, my favourite being the apple and rutabega (swede) soup.  Yum!  Anyway, as we were leaving to go back to DC my parents bought me a signed copy of Patrick O'Connell's then-latest book, which is something that I still treasure today.  The recipes in it are challenging but not impossible, and the results are so worth it!

I won't be writing out the recipes to these dishes as they can all be found in the Inn at Little Washington cookbook (link above) and I'm fairly sure I'd be violating some form of copyright law by posting them on the internet. 

I do have pictures, though, and if anyone has any questions, leave a comment!

In This Post
Asparagus Salad with Pickled Egg and Beet Vinaigrette
Carpaccio of Baby Lamb with Arugula (Rocket), a Mustard-Rosemary Sauce and Tabbouleh
Medallions of Veal Shenandoah with a Calvados Cream and Spätzle with Walnuts
Cheese Course
Duo of Chocolate Mousses

Asparagus Salad with Pickled Egg and Beet Vinaigrette

The recipe originally called for quail eggs but we decided to use chicken eggs instead.  I think it worked, but the dish was certainly less delicate than it would have been should we have used a quail egg.  The eggs were pickled using a beetroot broth for colour.

The garnishes are deep-fried asparagus shavings, pistachios, beetroot cubes and a beetroot cream.  Inspired!

To drink we had a Sancerre from Domaine Naudet 2009.  It was nice with the asparagus but we probably could have done with a richer wine due to the beetroot and egg components of the dish.





Carpaccio of Baby Lamb with Rocket, a Mustard-Rosemary Sauce and Tabbouleh

The lamb carpaccio was made using a lamb loin trimmed of all fat and sinew, rolled in dried herbs and seared for the briefest of periods over a very high heat.  The loin was then frozen so it could be cut very thinly. 

I must admit I was worried about the sauce and tabbouleh, as when I made them they tasted way too strong for the dish.  However, they'd really mellowed out by the time we were ready to serve.  I'll definitely be making this dish again!

To drink we finished off the Sancerre and moved on to a Rioja Viña Arana 2001.  It was of course too heavy, but we'd also bought it for the cheese.  It actually went alright with the lamb and was absolutely delicious. 

Medallions of Veal Shenandoah with a Calvados Cream and Stzle with Walnuts

Yes, I know, it's springtime now and this dish is totally autumnal.  Still, it was lovely and I'd have it all year round if I could (and weren't worried about a coronary from all the cream in this dish...) 

The garnishes were granny smith apples sauted in butter, calvados and cider and prunes macerated in cider.  The sugar and acid from the garnishes really cut through the richness of the spätzle and cream sauce. 

To drink, we had two ciders: Shappy's Dabinett Apple Somerset Cider and Waitrose Organic Vintage Cider 2009.  The cider we used in cooking was Henry Weston's Medium Sweet Oak Aged Herefordshire Cider. 

Cheese Course

Our cheeses were (clockwise from the top) Manchego, Cheshire, Bocconcino di Pura Capra, Compté, Taleggio. 

The cheeses were accompanied by a quince paste, a rocket, chicory and hazelnut salad from the book Cheese Course, some bread and savoury biscuits.

To drink we finished off the red wine and had a glass of L'Ormarins Port from the Franschhoek Valley in South Africa. 





Duo of Chocolate Mousses

These mousses were done using dark, unsweetened chocolate (Willie Harcourt-Cooze's Venezuelan) and white chocolate (Menier). 

Unfortunately, the chocolate for the white chocolate mousse seized slightly during melting and the high cocoa content of the dark chocolate caused both the mousses to have weird textures, but they both still tasted nice.  You live and you learn!

To drink we had decaff coffee.  :-)





Ah, Sunday.  This was certainly an epic Sunday dinner.  I think next Sunday will have to be a giant salad...

Wednesday, 9 March 2011

Mardi Gras!

Long time no post, I know, but it's a new day and I've got tons of new things to talk about.  We held a Mardi Gras party last Saturday (which took me THREE days to recover from) and had a cornucopia of delicious food.  Below are what we had and their accompanying recipes....  Yum!

In This Post
Chicken and Sausage Gumbo
Ham Jambalaya
Cheese and Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Dip
Honey Mustard Sausage Pinwheels
Spinach Pinwheels
Deep Fried Macaroni and Cheese Balls
King Cake
Hand Grenades
Hurricanes

Phew!  That's a lot to get through, so without any further ado....

Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

Now, just a word before I start talking about gumbo here... well, it's more of a disclaimer.  This is in no way meant to be an 'authentic' recipe and I am in no way an 'expert' in gumbo (or jambalaya for that matter.)  If you want the real deal, I'd suggest getting yourself on a plane and going down to Bayou country (and can I take this opportunity to send a shout-out to my friends at A-2-Fay who sell delicious cajun products)  for some proper cajun eats.  That being said, I must say this gumbo was pretty delicious and a fairly good substitute for real gumbo if you're stuck in Edinburgh like me. 

  1 cup roux (see below for methods for using bought roux and for making your own)
  2 large onions, finely diced
  2 large bell peppers (one red, one green), finely diced
  4 ribs of celery, finely diced
  5 cloves garlic minced
  4 quarts chicken stock WITHOUT SALT (works out to about 4.5 litres)  
  3 bay leaves
  2 tbsp cajun seasoning (see below for a note on cajun seasoning)
  1 tsp dried thyme
  1 large fresh chicken
  2 lbs (about 1kg) andouille or any smoked sausage (Polish kielbasa's pretty nice), sliced into bite size pieces
  Filé powder to taste (filé powder is dried and ground sassafras leaves)

First things first: butcher the chicken.  I won't go into the technique of doing that here as there are so many different ways of doing it, all of which work for different people.  I personally recommend the technique laid out in La Varenne Pratique by Anne Willan (or, simply, 'The Bible.')  You should end up with two breasts, two thighs (deboned) and two drumsticks (also deboned.)  If you personally don't fancy butchering a chicken (I understand - it's pretty grim) then feel free to buy the meat pre-packaged or ask your butcher to do the job for you.  The one disadvantage of buying the chicken parts in a supermarket is that you don't end up with a carcass that can be used to make the chicken stock needed later in the recipe, and unsalted chicken stock can be hard to find (as I found out the hard way.)  If you get your butcher to cut your chicken for you, then do remember to ask for the carcass.  Cut the chicken meat into bite size chunks.

You can cook the gumbo one of two ways:

If making your own roux:

A note about roux: Roux in Louisiana is a little different than the classic French roux.  The concept is the same (equal parts fat and flour), but oil rather than butter is used and the roux is cooked to a dark, milk chocolate colour for a deep flavour.  You can buy roux at specialty stores if you're a bit nervous about making your own.

Brown the chicken and sausage (unless sausage is already cooked) pieces in oil over high heat and set aside.  Turning down the heat and in the same pan, heat 1 cup oil (not olive) and 1 cup flour and cook until it's the colour of milk chocolate.  Add the onions, peppers and celery (the combination of the three is called the 'holy trinity' and is the base for many cajun dishes), and sweat, stirring constantly for about 5 minutes.  Add the garlic, cajun seasonings and filé power, then add the chicken stock, sausage and chicken and bring to the boil.  Simmer for about an hour.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Skim fat off the top before service and serve over boiled rice in bowls. 

If using store-bought roux:

Brown the chicken and sausage (unless sausage is already cooked) pieces in oil over high heat and set aside.  In the same pan, and turning the heat down a little, sweat the onions, peppers and celery (the combination of the three is called the 'holy trinity' and is the base for many cajun dishes), stirring constantly for about 5 minutes.  Sprinkle in the roux powder (if using powder) or stir in paste (if using jarred pre-made roux) and mix with the veg.  Add the garlic, cajun seasonings and filé powder.  Then add the chicken stock, sausage and chicken and bring to the boil.  Simmer for about an hour.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Skim fat off the top before service and serve over boiled rice in bowls. 

A note about cajun seasonings...  There are more types of cajun seasonings than you can shake a stick at.  Everyone seems to have their own secret recipe.  Usually you'll find paprika, cayenne, garlic salt, onion podwer and pepper or some such combination.  There are loads of recipes on the internet.  I was pretty lazy this time and used Slap Ya Mama mix, which I find pretty tasty!


Jambalaya

Jambalaya is one of those rice dishes you can pretty much throw anything into and it tastes lovely.  Normally I make a chicken and sausage jambalaya but this year I decided to use ham instead.  I don't know if I'll ever go back... it was amazing!

  3 tbsp oil (I used groundnut)
  2 large onions, finely diced
  2 bell peppers (I used red and green), finely diced
  4 ribs celery
  3 cloves garlic, minced
  2 tins chopped tomatoes
  500 g (1 lb) uncooked smoked gammon (in the US just buy cooked smoked ham and dice it)
  1 tsp dried thyme
  1 tsp dried basil
  2 tbsp cajun seasonings (see note above in gumbo recipe)
  1 cup American rice (no idea what this works out to in grams, just use a mug to approximate!)

Cut the gammon into smaller pieces, removing the fat, and mince it roughly in the food processor.  It shouldn't turn into a paste or even the consistency of minced hamburger.  Really it should just be quite rough.  If you are using cooked smoked ham, just dice it into bit sized pieces.  Heat oil in a large pot (preferably a dutch oven) and sweat the onions, peppers and celery (the 'holy trinity.')  Add the ham and saute briefly.  Then add the herbs and seasonings.  Add the rice and cook slightly (about a minute) so that it absorbs the flavours in the pot.  Add the tomatoes.  Finally, add an equal amount of water as you did rice (so 1 cup rice, 1 cup water).  Let simmer for around a half an hour, until all the liquids are absorbed and the rice is tender.  You may have to add more water to the rice during cooking.  For that reason, it is important to check the rice every 10 minutes or so to make sure it isn't drying out. 


Cheese and Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Dip

Yeah.  This thing is totally addictive and decadent, and will probably be the first thing to go at a party so make double what you think will be eaten.  Seriously.  The recipe was given to me by a friend in Louisiana and originally called for pepper jam instead of the roasted raspberry chipotle sauce (from Fischer and Wieser, can be found here - they ship to the UK!!) but I decided to change it and I'm so glad I did!

  500g (1lb) mild cheddar cheese, grated
  1 cup mayonnaise (or enough to cover the cheese)
  1 bunch spring onions, chopped
  150 g (about 6oz) pecans, chopped
  1 jar Fischer and Wieser Roasted Raspberry Chipotle Sauce

Combine the cheese, mayonnaise, spring onions and pecans and spread the mixture into a flat dish with raised sides (such as a pie dish.)  Pour the raspberry chipotle sauce over the top. Serve with crackers and enjoy!


Honey Mustard Sausage Pinwheels

These are really, really addictive and so simple to make.  Make sure to defrost the logs a little bit, but not completely, before cutting into pinwheels.  For the sausagemeat, use either Bob Evans sweet italian sausage in the US or sweet chilli sausages (remove casings) in the UK. 

  500g (1lb) sweet-spicy sausage
  1 large dollop (or to taste) American mustard
  1 large dollop (or to taste) honey
  1 packet puff pastry

In a bowl, combine sausage, mustard and honey. Roll out the puff pastry until it's about 1/8"-1/4"thickness and into a rectangular shape.  You can use the pre-rolled puff pastry if you wish.  Spread the sausage mixture onto the puff pastry and roll up as you would a jelly roll.  Wrap in tin foil and freeze, at least three hours.  This will keep in the freezer for quite a while so this recipe can be made well in advance.  When ready to serve, cut 1/4"-1/2" slices from the roll and either bake straight away or put back in the freezer until ready to bake (bake at 200C or 400F until golden).  The great thing about these is that that can (and must) be baked from frozen so they are really convenient for "spontanteous" parties (i.e. Phuza Thursday.)


Spinach Pinwheels

These are prepared in exactly the same way as the sausage rolls above except for the filling (which is as follows)...

  1 packet washed, ready to eat fresh spinach (preferably baby spinach)
  1 container cottage cheese (this will work out to about 1 cup)
  1 egg
  1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
  salt and pepper to taste

Blanch the fresh spinach in salted boiling water until wilted.  Drain and cool.  Meanwhile, combine the cottage cheese, egg, nutmeg, salt and pepper into a medium size bowl.  Squeeze the excess moisture out of the spinach and add to the cottage cheese mixture.  Combine thoroughly.  Spread onto puff pastry and roll as you would a jelly roll.


Deep Fried Macaroni and Cheese Balls

A friend of mine here in Scotland said "I didn't think there was any way to make Macaroni and Cheese better... but then again I never thought to deep fry it!"  Ironic, seeing as we're the home of deep fried Mars Bars.  In all seriousness, whilst these things are delicious , they should probably only be eaten once a year!  Serve these with marinara sauce, or if you have American white trash leanings like I do, ketchup.  BBQ sauce is another amazing dipping sauce (and it'll compliment the smokiness of the gouda)...

  1 lb (500g) elbow macaroni
  2 tbsp (15g) unsalted butter
  2 tbsp flour
  2 cups (240ml) milk
  1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
  1 lb (500g) mild cheddar cheese, grated
  1 lb (500g) smoked gouda cheese, grated
  2 large eggs
  3 cups breadcrumbs, seasoned
  groundnut oil for frying

Cook the pasta according to the instructions on the packet.  Drain and set aside.  Meanwhile, make a roux from the flour and butter.  Once the flour is cooked (but not bowned), add the milk and nutmeg and lightly cook until thickened (if the sauce is not thickening, turn up the heat slighly.)  Add the cheeses and let them melt into the sauce over low heat (don't let it burn!) 

Combine the pasta and sauce and spoon the whole lot into a tray and let cool in the fridge for at least two hours.  After the macaroni and cheese has set, use it to form meatball size balls and freeze them overnight.

When ready to serve, coat the balls in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in a pan with about 1/4"-1/2" full of groundnut oil.  Once golden, drain balls and tranfer them to the oven (180C/350F) for about 10 minutes to ensure the centres are piping hot.


King Cake

King Cake, the yummy brioche-y cake served every year at Mardi Gras.  Whoever gets the feve (the bean or miniature plastic baby put into the cake after baking) will be crowned the king/queen of Mardi Gras and will remain so until the next year.

For this recipe I used one I found off Epicurious and it worked out fairly well.  I must say I couldn't find coloured decorative sugar so I just put food colouring into the icing itself. 


Hand Grenades

Oh my good gracious me I think that these (and the hurricanes) are the bad boys partly responsible for my three day recovery period after this party.  Drink these sparingly (or not...)

Hand Grenades were created for the 1984 (I think) World's Fair in Louisiana.  They're now sold mainly on Bourbon Street in New Orleans and are the main cause for many girls to, ahem, "go wild"... The recipe remains classified but these are a good approximation.  They come out STRONG so it might be a good idea to either dilute them with water or even sprite/lemonade for a hand grenade 'cocktail.'

  1 part gin
  1 part grain alcohol
  1 part melon liqueur (like Midori)
  1 part rum
  1 part vodka
  Sugar to taste

Now, since we don't really have everclear or anything over here, I left that part out and added extra midori.  Goodness.


Hurricanes

This cocktail is absolutely delicious and we ran out of it about a hour into the party.  They're deceptively lethal though, watch out!

  2 parts light rum
  2 parts dark rum
  2 parts passion fruit juice
  2 parts passoa (or any passion fruit liqueur)
  1 part orange juice
  1/2 part lime juice
  lime slices to garnish



Well there you go!  Mardi Gras is over for another year... already looking forward to Mardi Gras 2012!!